FIMBY: Hints for choosing tomato seeds
This is another installment in our Food in My Back Yard series, devoted to edible gardening.
Ah, January, time to order seeds for the 2026 tomato garden. I always wait until the new year to crack open catalogs or dive into websites — no sense getting tomato dreams mixed up with thoughts of eggnog and fir trees.
I often start with the printed catalog of Tomato Growers Supply Co., just to revel in the color photos and the descriptions. The 2026 version is as fun as ever, though even more stuffed than in the past. TGSC always has carried peppers and eggplant seeds along with tomatoes, but now the back pages include herbs, radishes, even spinach — not what you think of for summer gardens.
The color pages of tomatoes are still organized by season (the non-cherry reds), types (small-fruited, oxhearts, etc) or colors (yellow, green, orange, black, bicolor). But puzzlingly, they are no longer in alphabetical order within those categories: Sugar Baby is followed by Oregon Spring V is followed by Clear Pink Early, for example.
I guess the website is the better place to browse after all.
But we’re here today to discuss HOW to choose tomato seeds, in addition to suggestions of where — and even why.
The “why” might be the easiest: Growing tomato plants from seed can be astonishingly rewarding, especially when they are varieties that the nurseries don’t carry as transplants.
If you’re venturing into tomato-seed starting for the first time, here are some things to consider for the “how” portion:
— Realistic amount of space for tomato plants. If you tried two or three plants in containers last year, and want to do that again, great. Avoid any tomatoes described as “vigorous.” A vigorous tomato, such as Juliet, needs mucho space (including for roots) and a sturdy cage. Most beefsteaks need a lot of ground, too. Look for tomatoes that include “dwarf” or “bush” in the title. My favorite: Better Bush Hybrid for a salad-size tomato, with Patio another good one.
Also, growing tomatoes in the same spot two years in a row is not recommended, because of the potential for disease and return of pests that were present last summer. If moving the tomato bed is not possible, it’s important to give that soil plenty of fresh nutrients, at least a month before planting. It’s even more important to look for disease-resistant tomato varieties: those with V, F and especially N notations after the variety name. Those refer to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt (both fungal diseases) and Nematodes. That last one is a microscopic worm that hangs out in the soil; root-knot nematodes feed on roots and will destroy a tomato plant.
— Your growing season. We all have to deal with extreme bursts of Sacramento heat, but what I’m talking about here is availability of time. Can you get tomatoes in the ground in March, or have to wait until May? Going on vacation in late summer? Lots of family activity in July? These will affect how much garden time you can spend on tending, watering, patrolling for pests and harvesting any summer vegetables, including tomatoes.
Tomatoes well-established in the ground will take less immediate care over summer than container plants. Determinate varieties will produce most of their crop at the same time, then screech to a stop — a scenario perfect for anyone planning a big canning session or an extended trip in August.
On the other hand, indeterminates often can (with help and some shade cloth) weather a tough summer and come back stronger in the fall. I’ve had cherry tomatoes and even salad-size black tomatoes do this.
In addition to determinate vs. indeterminate, check whether the variety is considered early, mid- or late season. The “days to maturity” should be listed. Anything past 80 days is going to require much patience — and some cooperation from the weather.
— Experiments are OK, but include a few reliable varieties. Otherwise risk a load of disappointment this summer. I don’t choose as many unknown varieties any more. I’ve been growing tomatoes for more than 30 years, and that’s a lot of learning from experience. I now skip late-season heirlooms altogether. That long wait for a few fruits, the split skins, the spider mites — who needs that level of tragedy every year?
I still like to try a new variety or two, but now have a strong list of Sacramento-area reliables. They are:
Full-size: Big Beef (my star last year), Chef’s Choice Orange, Lemon Boy, First Prize, Cherokee Carbon, AAA Sweet Solano. These are all indeterminate hybrids, which should tell you something. And any variety with “Girl” or “Boy” in the title will be decent.
Cherry and grape tomatoes: Juliet, Sun Sugar. Still looking for the ideal red cherry, but there are many acceptable ones.
Paste/sauce: Rugby, Big Mama, Yaqui (latter is determinate).
Where to order tomato seeds
When I was new to tomato seed starting, I’d order four to seven seed packets per company, from Burpee Seeds, Totally Tomatoes, Territorial Seed, Nichols Garden Nursery, and Seeds of Change, in addition to Tomato Growers. Later I discovered the overwhelming collection of all vegetables at Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds. Online access has added Peaceful Valley, TomatoFest, Eden Brothers, Botanical Interests, Renee’s Garden and Wild Boar Farms to my shopping list — a browsing list, really.
Renee’s, Botanical Interests and Ferry-Morse seeds also are sold at local nurseries, hardware and big box stores, along with Burpee, of course.
Note: Some of the seed companies aren’t clued into California planting dates and ship the packages when they get to it — which might be too late for us. (I start seeds in late January to mid February.) If I get a late shipment, I hang onto the seeds for next year and try to remember not to order from that company again. The West Coast companies are better at shipping quickly. Wild Boar Farms (headquartered in Citrus Heights), Renee’s and Peaceful Valley are the closest to us.
Some words on words
Be aware of the code words buried in the descriptions of the seed varieties. Again, “vigorous” means you’d better give it plenty of room and your sturdiest cage. “Flavor worth waiting for” means it might, just might, produce a crop before fall. Any variety that promises “prolific” or “a profusion of tiny tomatoes” will wear you out with picking.
Others to watch for:
– “Sometimes their shape is a little rough.” You won’t be able to get a good slice from it.
— “Early season, cold tolerant.” It’ll likely die early, too, if grown in the Sacramento flatlands.
— “Intriguing flavor.” After tasting the first one you won’t know what to do with it.
Have fun, and do tell us which seed varieties are on your list this year!
